Round the Rock by kayak - Wendy, Bernie and the three beers.

Coming back from a visit to the cafe, I pass a tent in a garden by the beach. There is a kayak nearby. And a woman nearby.

This is Wendy Killoran, the first woman to circumnavigate Newfoundland by kayak. All by herself. I was so impressed. Me, I had lounged around, boating. I had heard someone talk about her somewhere round St Anthony. So I couldn't resist and introduced myself. Lean, fit, excellent legs - no, not me, dammit - it was just great to talk to a woman, the first since Laura in St John's.

I shall write more about this later, but we met for both of us at just the right time. She was within a couple of days of completing her journey, and we were later joined by Bernie Howgate, another kayaker and writer. Ended up sitting on the deck of the house where Wendy was camping, drinking beer till dark.

At the cafe, hours earlier, I had bought J a couple of takeout puddings topped with heaps of whipped cream. Three beers and no food all day, I took them back to him, still in their containers, upside down. He was more than happy to eat them, though.