more 6 August

After sailing under jib and jigger (J's terms) from Cow Head, (20 miles) in the sunshine, we turned into the wide bay where Rocky Harbour finds itself. A white italianate lighthouse marks the entry on the north side. RH lives up to its name - rockodiles everywhere, especially on the south side where there is a nasty ledge. We came up to one wharf, but were directed away, deep into a bay, which looked unbelievably shallow, and came up inside the wharf there. A couple of men moved a dory, and then took our lines - I love that - so helpful, especially when scrabbling off the boat is a mite perilous.

The forecast over the island is for gales, so we are staying put here this afternoon and tomorrow. And J is still unwell, so this is the best idea.

I go and find an internet place (phew expensive and an eagle eye on the allotted time) and also have a mooseburger. Yet again, you gotta. I'm still sorry I never had a grouperburger in Eleuthera.

This is a very, no, very, touristy place - with an eye on the till, motels, a rather ugly block of tourist cabins, restaurants, a spawning ground for big buses, and Ise Da B'ye Boat Tours (trans. I'm the boy). But I dont blame anyone - local or tourist - the Gros Morne National Park, from the water, looks stunning, deep fjord clefts, high mountains - picturesque. And why not exploit it - heavens, brings money and jobs here, and nothing destroyed. Except perhaps the enjoyable intimacy of the small places we've visited. But it's easy to be selfish, coming from theme park UK.

It's the only place I havent particularly wanted to explore, though, and spent the afternoon sunbathing on the boat. Grab the sun while you can.

Supper was fried cod - the last of it, and yummy.